Benson the Teacher's Culinary Art of War: 鞭神老師之食之兵法

宋宴

  一提到築地，我們腦海中首先浮現的，多半還是每年有著44萬噸的漁獲流通，年交易金額更高達4400億円，有著日本的廚房之稱，現已搬遷至豐洲的全世界最大的魚市場「築地市場」。築地市場佔地為23公頃，有五個東京巨蛋那麼大。計有七家註冊批發業者(「卸売業」)、600家註冊的中盤商(仲卸業)、300家拍賣商「売買参加者」，以及其它150家運輸業、冷藏業等相關的業者。已於2018年10月遷至江東區的豐洲市場。

  香腸，按照種類可以分成血腸(blood sausage)、南非的Boerewors、臘腸、西藏香腸Gyurma、猶太香腸Helzel、熱狗腸、斯洛維尼亞香腸Kranjska klobasa、希臘香腸Loukaniko、古羅馬香腸Lucanica、北非的梅格茲香腸Merguez、炸熱狗(corn dog)、Pepperette、泰北香料香腸Sai ua、酸味香腸Summer sausage、盧森堡黑布丁Träipen、德國咖哩香腸Volkswagen currywurst、白布丁White pudding、冬季莎樂美腸Winter salami等。

  老王(王東雲)是我認識多年的一個朋友，這是春節期間對他訪談，整理出的關於他的重慶火鍋故事。

中南美洲

   在中菜之中，湖北菜的存在感不是那麼高，也許我們聽過武漢熱乾麵，還有我之前介紹過的襄陽牛肉麵，不過，真要讓我們一下子說上幾道湖北菜的經典大菜，可能就絞盡腦汁都很難想到了。原本談湖北菜我是想從「過早」談起的，但是心念一轉，還是覺得先從兩道大家可能壓根兒都想不到是湖北菜的菜開始談。怎麼會想不到呢？因為這兩道菜感覺就是不特屬於某個特定菜系的家常菜，或是換句話說，這兩道菜似乎出現在不管什麼菜系的餐桌上都不會顯得突兀。這也許一方面是因為，它們各自的個性都不是那麼地鮮明，另一方面，也是因為它們所使用的烹調方式，讓人覺得不需要專業的廚藝。然而，這兩道菜卻是純正湖北血統，卻散見於各省餐桌。它們是蓮藕排骨湯和珍珠丸子。

  這十年來的江戶前壽司與以前的有著極為明顯的變化，其中包括了おまかせ(omakase)的點餐方式變得理所當然、酒餚的比重大大地提高、能用お好み的方式點餐的店家減少、壽司店單價暴增、使用赤醋的舍利變得普遍等。

序言

  Higashiyama Akira’s (東山彰良) Japanese Naokishou (直木賞) 2015 winning novel Rye (流) depicts the story about the identity crisis of a seventeen-year-old Taiwanese high school student. Like his protagonist Ye Chiu-sheng (葉秋生) in the novel, Higashiyama Akira was born in Taiwan with a grandfather from Shandong province of China after the Chinese civil war in the end 1940s. Higashiyama, whose Chinese name is Wang Chen-hsu (王震緒), was born 1968 in Taipei City and moved to Japan at five with his family. And as Higashiyama says about his own identity crisis, his protagonist in the novel also shares the same kind of crisis: “I am always an outsider, no stranger to the issue of belonging.” What his character shares with Higashiyama is the conditions of collectivity in constant becoming, just like the English name of the title of this novel suggests “Flow” (流). No stranger to the issue of belonging, both Higashiyama and Ye Chiu-sheng in the novel are the strange subjects in French philosopher Gilles Deleuze’s Anti-Oedipus, who “wandering about over the body without organs, but always remaining peripheral to the desiring-machine.” Furthermore, written in Japanese, Ryu affects readers, with the mystery and fantasy weaving among the yesteryear’s streets and famous buildings, the dress and hair style of high school students during 1970s, the historical events and relations between 20^th century Taiwan and China, Taiwanese slangs written in Japanese language, and the search for the ancestral home of the protagonist’s grandfather in China’s Shandong province, creates machinic relations and desires. And the identities of the characters in Ryu are emerged from the intensive flows move between disequilibrium and equilibrium without ever reaching some determinated or fixed point of relation, but always differentiating and flowing.

重慶火鍋、酸菜白肉鍋、涮羊肉這些華夏名鍋，或因氣候、或因物產或因習慣，而開展出各自勢力，卻又彼此共存共榮。想要麻辣一下，涮個毛肚鵝腸過過癮，就選重慶火鍋；想和朋友圍爐，把酒言歡，大口吃肉，就來個酸菜白肉鍋；想享受鮮美嫩滑的草原羔羊的原味，豪邁地配上幾杯二鍋頭，就吃涮羊肉。只是，粵菜三大菜系 – 廣府菜、潮(州)汕菜、東江菜(客家菜)之一，以烹飪海鮮見長的潮汕菜，竟以牛肉火鍋打出了名號，甚至席捲神州各大城市，這其中的緣由與發展究竟是什麼？